Every first-time traveller to Paris hears about the same bucket-list places: the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Versailles… For me, the list of must-see-and-practise-French sights/sites was formed by passages in the French textbooks we used at school. Those stops were unavoidable—the stuff of dreams— but for other people, they turn into overrated, crowded, or disappointing experiences.…